“Last night at the Whitney Museum, McCollough and Hernandez finally broke the tedium with a collection that put more emphasis on cut than new fabrics. In a way, their idea was simple: Cut into a long tweed skirt, leaving wide strips of fabric, or into the hem and lapels of a gray wool coat, so that the structure was literally broken up and, of course, lightened. The return of classic tailoring has been a major trend of Fashion Week, and I love the civility and poise it suggests. But I’ve been hoping a designer would take a freer approach with the cutting — propose a shape and attitude that’s more modern — and that’s what Proenza achieved. (I suppose it’s also what poor Kanye intended with his slashed Adidas clothes, but he lacks the talent to articulate a big fashion story.) The texture of modern life, the disruptive breaks, demands a similar expression in fashion. And it means more when those ideas come from high-fashion designers who work with traditional techniques and materials.”


Story and Photo: NY Mag